Monday, December 30, 2013

Monday: US birthday cycle through the jungle

I am overwhelmed with love!! There is no such thing as being lonely when alone in another country, thanks to technology! The outpouring of birthday love has me high as a kite. Thank you all! 
I love birthdays as I feel they are your very own special day to be celebrated. Here are just a couple of my the wonderful wishes I received from around the world (Australia, Hawaii and CA)



One of my favorite things of all time, the gift of a llama through Heifer International. If you are reading this and do not know about this, do yourself a favor and look it up. 


These all left me speechless along with the countless other wishes received. Thank you from the bottom of my heart.


US birthday breaky view. The rooftops in the back are the guest rooms, the pool is between here and the buildings.


Traditional Indonesian breaky. Black rice porridge with coconut milk, fruit and tea.


As I was getting ready, this beautiful woman who lives in the compound was placing an offering. (I saw at least 4 offering times before 2 pm today)


Since I took my Bali birthday off from any sort of activities I decided I needed some exercise. So today I took part in an Eco biking tour through the jungle country. I'm not usually a tour person, but this ended up being a great cultural experience and I got out of the city!

A group of 7 were all picked up from our different hotels and driving about 30 minutes up into the mountains. We started at the Lakeview Restaurant and Hotel overlooking Mt. Batur and it's neighboring crater lake, lake Batur. Upon arrival we were handed fresh watermelon juice and provided a beautiful breakfast buffet. Yes, I had two breakfasts today.

Mt. Batur is the largest active volcano in Bali. It last erupted in 1963-you can see the black lava from that incident at the base. The locals still mine the area and you can hear the trucks and machinery from the hilltop.
They say that the two mountains on either side of the lake were once one. 




Lake Batur is the largest lake in Bali. It is freshwater, the middle reaches 17 meters  where the water is drinkable. The bamboo boxes in the water are used to raise fish. There are also several hot springs in the area. 




After breaky we headed to a coffee and spice farm. 

Our guide was so helpful and informative. Here he was collecting leaves for us to sniff and identify as well as grating the root spices on the rock for us to smell. They grow Ginger, turmeric (which I learned is an antiseptic and can stop bleeding as well as it is good for the stomach-something I need to try!), cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, white pepper, black pepper, etc. 


We were then introduced to the coffee Lewak which is described below. I remembered this from the movie "As Good As It Gets". It's the most expensive coffee in the world. A small cup was $5, which a regular cup of coffee goes for less than $1 in this area.


The lewaks were sleeping as they're nocturnal. I asked our guide if they were nice and he said no. Sometimes people will domesticate them, but not in Bali. They are native to this island, Sumatra and Java.

The Lewak eats the red coffee cherry, then poops it out (this calls for such bluntness) and it is then collected for processing. They wash it with hot water, dry, then roast it for 45 minutes...





Roasted beans 


Little blurry, but yes, I chewed a poo'ed out bean.


The coffee is then ground (front right), then sifted as our guide was showing us. He went on to explain that the coffee bean's sex can be identified by the number of beans. The female has two, which tastes smoother. The male has one which is more bitter. (I find this funny) strangely the male coffee was more expensive. 


Lewak coffee brewing

We were given a tasting of about 12 different teas and coffees. My favorite was the coconut coffee, although all were highly sweetened with sugar.


The view from the tasting area. Absolutely beautiful!


Pineapple growing from within this plant off the side of a tree. An entire little Forrest on one tree!


Jackfruit

We hopped back in the van and headed to get our mountain bikes for the 25k trek. 

Two little girls leaving school.

We stopped at a family compound which gave us a glimpse into the real family life in Bali, outside of our touristy home stays in the city.


Traditional kitchen. The mom does the cooking, starting around 5am. She makes one meal that is had for all meals throughout the day. They eat when hungry, no set breakfast, lunch and dinner times.


View of the compound. To the left is the parent's home which always has a higher foundation. The parents home is used for the honeymoon suite as well. After their children marry, they move out for one week and the newlywed children stay.
 
In the back left is the family temple, which every compound has. They hold a temple ceremony once a year on the anniversary of which the temple was built. 
 
The middle building is where all ceremonies are held; weddings, births, teeth filing, etc. Indonesian tradition is to have the front, top 4 teeth filed straight and the 2 on either side are made pointed by a priest. This is done at first menstruation for the women and when the "voice changes" for the man. If money is an issue, it can wait until the wedding day. It is cheaper to have the priest come for that and the wedding ceremony all in one day. They believe the filing of the teeth rids them of their 6 animalistic sins (which I can only remember 2; jealousy and drinking). 
 
All sons live within the compound which belongs to the youngest. The oldest son, unlike in America, has the most freedom. The youngest will be around longer to care for his parents. It is preferred that a female be born first, then a male as the female moves to be with her husband's family. Although they like many children, that is costly,  so many families stick to 2 children in hopes of a younger son.


Grandma was found out back peeling bamboo. Indonesians do not retire, they work into their old age. 
The skin of the bamboo is used for ceilings and goes for about 35,000 rupiah per square meter. This is less than $3 US dollar. 
The inner part of the bamboo is used for firewood and the outer for basket weaving. The bamboo takes 6 months from planting to harvest, sometimes growing up to 15cm a day in rainy season.

This family makes their living on the bamboo harvest as well as raising pigs.

They typically raise 3 at a time. 


On the road again!


Next stop was a rice field and harvest. They harvest about three times a year. This was fascinating to watch. The workers do not get paid. For every six bags the owner gets, the worker gets one bag of rice. The men do the planting and plowing and the woman do the harvesting. Lake Batur is the water source.
Although rice paddies are everywhere, it's a dying business in Indonesia. They are consuming more rice from Thailand than their own country. 
Countless times throughout our journey we saw tarps laid out with rice drying, often times half in the road and half in the front yard. They rake it constantly to get it to dry faster.

Local boys joined us for a part of the ride. Being amongst the people was a source for an incessant smile upon my face. The kids are constantly shouting "hah-low!", waving  and offering high fives. I wanted to stop at every turn and play with them!


Rice paddie view along the way.


Opposite the rice paddie. We headed to the banyan tree, which is thought to be holy, in the distance (above motorcycle)


This "mother" tree is over 500 years old. The hanging roots will plant themselves if they reach the ground and new trees will continue, but the villagers cut the roots to stop new trees. When baby trees start they take  the necessary nutrients from the mother tree, eventually killing it.


Couldn't not hug this beauty!


A makeshift soccer field behind the tree. Superman enjoyed a banana with us. Just wanna eat him up!


The excitement these kids had to see us ride by was so contagious!

This ride was truly experiencing what Balinese life is all about.  I felt as though I was riding through the pages of National Geographic at the sights and sounds. At one point we turned a corner and heard the loud ceremonial music of gongs and singing bowls. Around every corner the smells of wood burning alternating with exhaust or rotting garbage. (Thank goodness for smog checks and waste management back home!) I saw a topless grandmother carrying a load of bamboo upon her head, sarong around her waist. Or the man squatted over the roadside canal splashing his bum post release. Mind you this is the same canal used for laundry and bathing! 

The roads are so narrow, yet just wide enough for the narrow Asian vehicles and motorbikes to get by one another. 

Although it was 25k, it was mostly a workout of the hands since it was downhill. Even working out my hands on the brakes, I worked up quite the appetite. We were taken to a gorgeous buffet lunch overlooking more rice paddies before heading "home". 

As usual I took a much needed siesta before heading to the market. 
If only I could have captured the beauty of the sun setting in the impending rain clouds. This is a glimpse of traffic in central Ubud. 

Ch-ch-ch-chia Buddha! 

My sign. My motto with my moniker. ❤️It!

Ubud is a sleepy town, despite being a city. The market was shutting down before 7pm, which came as a warm welcome after experiencing a few vendors. They're Mexico pushy, yet grab your wrist to show you more. I purchased a couple things and left with no intent on returning. 

On my walk back it started raining not even 5 minutes after buying my rain poncho. Phew! Thankfully the real rain waited until I was peacefully enjoying the balcony when an instant downpour started. 

Holy bananas! No pun intended on the little temple or the surrounding banana trees. 

The rain is still going accompanied by intense thunder and lightning. The geckos are taking refuge.

Next to me on the patio. And have no fear, there is glass behind that beautiful wire! Although two babes were just having a flirty chase on my bedroom wall. Hopefully they'll wear themselves out and keep quiet tonight while I sleep.



Sunday, December 29, 2013

Sunday: Bali birthday

Yes, I am totally milking the fact my birthday can be two days due to different time zones.

Birthday blessing one was a solid night's sleep. Slept like a rock! These late night dance fests in the jungle humidity leave me famished by morning. I headed to enjoy my last breaky at Soulshine. I have been incredibly blessed to stay in a place I thought would be reserved for only a once in a lifetime special occasion. Nothing beats morning greetings for breakfast by Michael himself.
 
I enjoyed breaky with some laughs and kitten loves 

This babe was back so I gave her some of Bulby's (Bulby York, another dj) toast. She ate nearly a half a slice. I lingered and savored the moment until I could no more. Time to pack up and start my next leg! This feels like two trips within one. 

My cab picked me up and we went towards central Ubud. I have been told it is similar to Pai, Thailand-but I haven't yet  experienced that. I am being patient and holding no expectations. There is a lot of traffic and my driver informed me that students have two weeks off for the new year so it is a bit more crowded in the streets, which still isn't too much. 

I checked into my hotel, but my room was not yet ready so I headed out to explore.
A scooter loaded with toy horns.

Goldfish? This really struck me as the man had built a rack on his scooter, so the fish go wherever he goes. I couldn't help but wonder what if the water gets too hot?!

Entrance to a home, yet feels like it should be a tomb or some kind of relic.


I stopped for an ice cream bar as it's hot and it's my day, so I can do what I want. This was on the shelves of the little market:
The name terrified me, but I tried it anyway. Tastes like a muted Gatorade and I'm sure I will be drinking a few more this trip with the amount I'm sweating. 

I found the infamous "Yoga Barn" and walked the grounds a bit to inquire about classes. Just being in this space felt amazing. They offer classes nearly every hour and I can't hardly wait to get my stretch on! I would have right then and there had I been dressed accordingly. So instead I indulged in this...

Birthday lunch and cocktail! 

I officially feel in my travel element, taking in all of the sights and smells.


These sidewalks terrify me, but Balinese drivers scare me more so I carefully walk them. The walkways cover a ditch of sorts-you don't even wanna see what hides in there-it's nastiness! I once fell into a giant storm drain on a sidewalk as a child, so I have a bit of a fear walking over these precariously placed removable sections of sidewalk.


I am determined to find out the significance of birds here! This was a little shop not far from my hotel.


Maybe I'll sneak in with wire cutters later  and set then free. Shhhh....


I wish I could furnish my home with goods from around the world. Basket shop along the main road.


Every intersection has a gorgeous statue. This is closest to my hotel.


Back to the hotel for a quick dip and siesta!


Entrance. Pretty sure it was meant to be  with the Ganesh (elephant god) front and center. 
Our neighbor is the police station, so I feel incredibly safe. (Not that I haven't this whole trip thus far)


Within the compound. So my hotel is called Gunung Merta Bungalows. It's is a traditional Balinese homestay which is like a compound for extended family with rooms for guests. It is gorgeous!! I feel removed from the city, yet so close as all is just a short walk away.



The infamous backpack/small child en route to my room.


The pool, steps from my room. I enjoyed a quick cool off before a much needed nap.


From my front door.


My own private balcony (left view) from the back door.


Right view. These "backpacker" digs ain't so bad!




Side note: remember I said I had fallen on my run? Well I have this beauty to remind me on my upper thigh (not my booty!). 

Side note número dos: apparently fireworks happen nightly. And here I had thought it was a welcome for me. Boo. It's sounds a bit scary when you first here it, before realizing there is no war outside these home stay gates.

Ok, enough rambling. After my nap I headed out to walk around a bit since the sun had set and it was much cooler. I did a little shopping and found Bali Buddha which is an awesome natural food store. Bought myself a birthday treat of a raw chocolate truffles and coconut kefir. Attempting to indulge on the healthy side. I then stumbled into a bakery that had a ton of gluten free goods. So I bought a cookie to enjoy with my truffle. Fat kids status! 

The absolute best part of today? Shortly into my walk I turned down an alley and spotted Nahko. I fan girled it up and asked for a pic. He carries such an amazing energy and love. He grabbed me and started dancing while waiting for the picture. 


Birthday dance with Nahko in Bali? Apparently this is real life, but I'm not sure I believe it. (Jen-the personality makes it even better! 😉)


I will now go to bed with a giant smile. Goodnight, loves!